KLIB Convention 2009 SpeakersSpinning Traditional Japanese Cotton
by Sumi Takamoto
Textile Artist
Japan
For my handspun products, I prefer to use natural fabric, called “wamen” in Japanese, which literary means Japanese cotton. I dye the spun threads made of Japanese Cotton with natural dyes called awa indigo and Japanese madder. In my presentation, I would like to explain why I choose Japanese Cotton out of various kinds of natural fabrics, spin cotton threads by hand, and use awa indigo and Japanese madder.
Eventhough the cultivation of Japanese cotton had been widespread in Japan in the Muromachi period (1336–1573), it declined rapidly with the advent of mechanization of spinning technology. The biggest reason is that the length of Japanese cotton fiber, which differs from that of wool and American cotton, was not compatible with spinning machines. Naturally, the hand-spinning technology was replaced by machinery and quickly died out. Currently, the traditional hand-spinning techniques have been handed down only by small groups and individuals who have strived to preserve Japanese cotton. Despite the incompatible characteristic of Japanese cotton agrees with Japanese climate of high temperature and humidity, and personally I prefer its visual and tactical sense to that of wool and American cotton. Japanese cotton, that can only spun by hand, allows me to adjust the texture as well.
Moreover, I mainly use natural dyes: awa indigo and Japanese madder not only because both of these dyes are better for color fastness of Japanese cotton, but also because they are less damaging to the environment and people. Kumamoto, where I live, is famous for Minimata disease (mercuy poisoning), one of the four major pollution accidents in Japan. Some people have been still experiencing physical, social and economical difficulties there. I don’t know how much I can help, but I’m hoping to contribute to the society by offering hand-spun projects that suit Japanese climate and are less harmful to people and our shared environment.